Yorkshire News - Autumn 2009

Another rather non-descript Yorkshire summer failed to live up to its early promise but nevertheless was a big improvement on 2008. The main focus of development throughout July and August was Blue Scar on the limestone and I now have full details of the big gritstone find near Heptonstall.

Starting with Blue Scar 3 new sport lines in the vicinity of Rising Passions proved instantly popular. The lower halves of Bonny Masson's old E2s Dark Summer and Desire cleaned up well and now have lower-offs below the dodgy overlap. At F6b and F6a+ respectively they have certainly had more ascents in the last few months than they ever had in 24 years as trad lines. Paul Clarke also added a new line, Meaty, Beaty, Big and Bouncy (F6b+) straight up through the diagonal of Rising Passions and I created a frivolous rising traverse across the 'passions wall' called All Embracing (F6a+) which finishes above Weighting in the Wings.

The action then shifted to the Grey Wall where more old Masson and Gomersall lines were re-claimed from the undergrowth and bolted up to provide Dirty Harry (F6b), Break Free (F6c) and The Sybil Speaks (F6c). All now clean and on good quality rock. To the right I added Blue Sky Thinking (F6c+) and Aquamarine (F6b+) whilst Paul Clarke created Sudden Impact (F7a+) a crimpy eliminate just left of Dirty Harry. Paul Farrish then set to work on the more vegetated wall further left still and added Do You Feel Lucky (F6c), Magnum Force (F6b+) and Make My Day (F6b). Thanks go to Bonny Masson for permission to modernise her old routes which are now the 3 star centre-pieces of this long neglected but now excellent wall.

At Kilnsey Crag Aaron Tonks added Le Lapin et le Pigeon (F8a) as a direct eliminate to Myra Hindley and Mark Radtke extended New Mystique into a 30metre pitch up the right wall of the gully with Fatoliti's Cat (F6c). Another hard line was squeezed out of the left wall at Troller's Gill where Andy Chrome found The Tinderbox (F7c+) up the vague flake to the right of Spent Youth. Malcolm Townsley went prospecting at Gate Cote Scar and added The Logical Positivist's Variation (HVS 5b) via a short traverse and groove above The Fire Below.

At Foredale Quarry a couple of lines that Bob Larkin had cleaned several months ago finally dried out and the bolts went in. Waltzing Matilda (F6a+) is the left hand line in the Amphitheatre, on good rock and with an interesting finish. On the right side of the Hidden Walls sector he also climbed the obvious, twisting Winking Crack (F6b). Further right still in The Bay area Ken Suggett, Bob and I added Bomb Bay (F6a+) a varied route which finishes up the vertical hand-jam crack. And Mick Johnson climbed the slab and arete to its left as Nose Job (F6b). Back in the Amphitheatre Paul Farrish added a diagonal line left of Twinkle toes and a direct finish to the latter route. Both around F6a + but still need a bit more work with the crow bar.

At Giggleswick South on the Stone Cold Crazy Buttress Bob Larkin and I added Mini Gem (F5+) and Saving the Day (F6a+) and extended DDD to a new and more logical belay further right. Back on the popular end John Hunt created a left to right rising traverse of Sector Golf, The Belfry (F6b+). Meanwhile, at Robin Proctor's Scar Gone with the Wind is a new F5+ from Bob Larkin climbing the well cleaned groove to the right of Central Buttress.

The Main Wall at Langcliffe Quarry has seen its first action for 4 years when the year-round bird ban was finally lifted this summer. Glyn Edwards finally got to climb Moonwalk (F6b+) which he had prepared in 2005 just as the moratorium came into force. This is a combination route which climbs Walking the Dog, past its lower-off to a new belay on a higher ledge. The ledge is then traversed to the right where an atmospheric top pitch starts up a short corner and continues up an exposed wall to the top of the crag. Because of the ban on drilling here no new bolts have been placed but that didn't deter Glyn and Angela Soper from cleaning up and re-climbing the main pitches of the old Livesey test-piece The Black Table (E1 5b). This is now a much more feasible proposition with several new peg runners to supplement the sparse natural placements. Between Black Table and The Corner the same pair added a completely new line The Bleach Party (45m HVS/E1 5a). New pegs and adequate natural protection make this an enjoyable experience if double ropes are used. Further left the aptly named The Silence of the drills (E1 5b) takes a groove in the arete to the left of Silver Buttons but clips the odd bolt on that line en-route.

At Malham there is news of a couple of significant repeats. First Jenny Woodward made an impressive red-point of Predator (F8b), the first female ascent and this was followed by Steve Crowe's ascent of the full height of the Cove via The Groove, Free and Easy and Breach of the Peace - new name Central Wall (F8b) This was completed all in one push on a very long rope and is only the second time in over 20 years the feat has been accomplished. John Dunne using a different finish being the first in the 1980s.

Finally, Barry Clarke has been less prolific than of late but still managed to fill a few gaps on the Apex Buttress at Attermire and the odd line at Twisleton.

Over to Gritstone now and the big news is of the Hidden Quarry at Heptonstall. This tree shrouded hole in the ground has been fully developed by Gordon Mason, David Boeckstyns and friends who have created 12 excellent lines in the Hard severe to E2 categories. The team claim that the rock quality is good and similar to that in the main quarry with routes up to 22metres in length climbing walls, cracks and overlaps. As no stars have been allocated on the script sent to me it is difficult to single out the best lines but Alice in Wonderland (VS 4c), Quarryman's Corner (HVS 5a), Electric Candle (E1 5b), Au Revoir Midi (E1 5b) and Venus Flytrap (E2 5c) may be enough to whet your appetites. It is a sheltered south facing spot with overhanging trees to keep the rain out. It could be a worthwhile winter venue? Full details of how to get there are provided below. Whilst still out west David Boekstyns and Gordon Mason also paid another visit to Darby Delph and added Lizard (E2 5b) to the wall between Completion and Correction. Back in the heart of our region a significant addition has made at Eldwick Crag, the often overlooked quarry near Dick Hudson's on the back of Ilkley Moor. Adi Gill has climbed Elevator (E6 6c) to the left hand side of the wall in the left hand bay. The route is 18 metres long and much bigger than I remember from looking in there years ago. There is also significant bouldering potential here as well.

Aid Gill on Elevator E6 6C at Eldwick Crag

Aid Gill on Elevator E6 6C at Eldwick Crag

The number of routes continues to grow at Embsay Crag above Skipton. Jamie Moss and Matt Kilner have recorded another 6 micro-routes here. Five are short severes with the hardest being Can You Touch It (VS 4c) to the right of the overhang group. The only other news from Barden Moor is of Grubfoot (E1 5c), which climbs the 1st arete at Halton Heights Quarry from Andrew Bancroft. A more substantial eliminate was added to Cracked Buttress at Brimham recently when Jon Jewitt and Darryl Cavanagh contrived The Feel Good Hit of the Summer (E5 6b) between Parallel Cracks and Central Crack. Blinkers may be needed to avoid touching Central Crack as use of this reduces the grade to E3. At the same crag Jim Croft and Stuart Holmes added several routes including The Periwocky (E1 5b), in the Black Tower area, Rattlesnake (E1 5c) in the Watchdog area, A right hand start to Jackabu (E1 5c) on Zebra Buttress and several short pitches on what the bouldering guide refers to as The Threaded Block. Jim and Stuart know the block as The Eccles Cake and all their names follow this theme. The best is probably Icing on the Cake (HVS 5a), which is the continuation of an old boulder problem. At nearby Eavestone Crag Phillipe Osborne returned to Jib sail buttress 10 years on from creating his first routes there and added a new eliminate Thar She Blows (E5 6b).

For you bouldering fanatics John Hunt has compiled a mini-guide to the Roundhill Boulders in Upper Nidderdale. This is a very pleasant spot with similarities to nearby Slipstones. There are around 70 problems here first described and documented by Tony Barley and added to in recent years by several local worthies such as Chris Sowden, Steve Rhodes, Andy Swann, Jon Pearson and Francis Holland. John Hunt has pulled it all together and added a few eliminates of his own. The grades are generally relatively modest, but up to V6. The rock quality and aspect are superb.

Finally, for those of you who are expecting a hard winter this year the following write up of probably the best mixed climb in Yorkshire has been received from Carl McKeating and Rachel Crolla. The line, or at least variations on it have been climbed for years but I don't think it has ever been recorded before.

Black Shiver Gully 150mm I/II P1 * A winter route which climbs the distinct gully in the northwest face of Ingleborough. Undoubtedly climbed by generations of mountaineers looking for Yorkshire winter fun. Leave your ice screws behind, although the odd warthog and bulldog will prove handy, while taking a small selection of rock gear will aid flexibilty of line and adventure. 1. Ascend steepening snow to the short initial rock step - often banked out with drifted snow and harder than first appearances suggest, novices should belay here. 2. Climb the rock step direct or via an awkward variant on the right before trending immediately left to the main gully line. Continue up two more easier steps, to reach a good spike belay on the right (40m of rope from the initial step). 3. Steady snow leads to a wide broken amphitheatre, with a prominent small buttress centre left (40m). 4.Continue up the centre of the gully or, more interestingly, climb a short chimney (left of the small square buttress) before traversing precariously rightwards to the gully centre (30m). 5. Continue up to an escape in the centre of gully head via a short easy step or venture up a line on the steep broken rocks of the right wall (challenges to suit ability) (30m). 6. Hike 60m over level ground to the final tor where a short interesting line can be picked - more fun than it looks. Shelter from the wind and a spot for lunch can be found 60m further along at Ingleborough's summit shelter.

Dave Musgrove, 1st November 2009

HIDDEN QUARRY, HEPTONSTALL NGR: SD986274

By Gordon Mason and David Boeckstyns

A newly developed quarry known to Gordon Mason for several years but apparently, and surprisingly, overlooked by all other local activists. There is lots of potential here but the obvious lines have now all been cleaned and claimed. The rock is similar to the main quarry, with plenty of small overhangs, various size cracks and walls. The climbing is solid to about half height and then becomes overgrown with dense heather, therefore ledges have been dug out for the finishes. There are tree belays with some rope and peg lower offs. It is in a pleasant situation secluded and south facing with tree cover keeping it sheltered from the wind. It always seems to remain dry.

Approaches and access

 From the A646 Hebden Bridge to Todmorden road, just out of the town there is a set of traffic lights at the top of the hill with the Fox and Goose pub on the right hand side, Heptonstall Road leads up from here. If coming from Hebden Bridge you need to go past here to the turning circle and then come back. Go up Heptonstall Road for 300 metres, where there is a row of terraced houses on the right, you need to go past here so you can turn round and park on the road above the houses. Directly opposite the terraced houses there is a public footpath which leads up into the wood, walk up this path for 100 metres to where there is a junction of paths, walk on for a further 50 metres and just before the path emerges from the wood there is a vague hidden path on your right which leads directly into the quarry. Time from car 5 minutes. Alternatively you could park on the Social Club car park in Heptonstall and walk down into the quarry

Yorkshire News - Summer 2009

It has been quite an interesting 3 months on the Yorkshire New Route scene. Little has been added on the grit (although rumours of a major find near Heptonstall could change that soon) but lots has been happening on the Limestone, in particular the discovery and development of a significant new crag above Settle, Castlebergh.

We will start, however with trad limestone and Barry Clarke has pushed his overall total of new routes in Yorkshire towards the 500 mark. I'm not sure how many he has done elsewhere but wonder if his real target is Gary Gibson's record of well over 3000 new routes in Britain? Anyway his latest offerings have been much as before around Ingleton and Kingsdale but with a significant foray into the dry valley above Malham (12 routes) and the prow on the left end of the upper left wing of Gordale (6 routes). Nearly all have been soloed and the theme of sub-HVS and sub 7metres is generally the norm. Barry made a bit of an exception when he went to Smearsett Scar with Andy Blakeley and Deirdre Collier, he actually tied a rope on to second Andy up a new 10 metre route Justin Timberflake.(E1 5b)

Angela Soper on Environmental Understanding. Castlebergh. Photo D Musgrove.

At the beginning of April Bob Larkin and I (temporarily devoid of bolts) decided to pay a visit to Crummackdale and came away with The Older Generation (E1 5b) a variation just left of Generation Gap and Back to Basics (E1 5b), more independent and just left again. Bob returned the following day with Ken Suggett and added Jupiter (HVS 5a) and Zeus (E1 5b) a little further left, both of which take fairly direct lines through the diagonal ramp of The Shambles and finish over the big roof above. Bob also cleaned and climbed a variation on Shepherd Neame avoiding the bold and technical start and the 'Damoclean' bulge above. His wandering variant merits HVS 5a but is pleasant enough. Karl Lunt also added a variation on the same crag; Grey Matter (VS 4c) links the start of Grey Corner to the finish of Confidence Trick. Paul Clarke had a brief 'trad' moment when he climbed A Series of Unfortunate Events (E2 6a) left of Lemon at the long neglected Gate Cote Scar. His trad renaissance didn't last long however as he soon returned with Nigel Baker, Keith Morgan and the drill to add seven excellent sport routes to the left-hand buttress between Ash Tree Groove and Mr Faranheit. From the left these are The Fire Below (F6a+); Heat of the Moment (F6c); The Measure of Things (F7a) Heading for the Groove (F6b+) and, a bit further right A matter of Degrees and Arc En Ciel (both F7a) which take parallel lines on excellent rock in the vicinity of the chimney of To See a Rainbow.

Before the boys got stuck into Gate Cote a bit of unfinished business at Moughton Nab had to be attended to. On the steep right hand buttress Nigel squeezed in Burly in Ribblesdale (F6c) and Paul Clarke traversed a big section of the same wall with Do Not Go Gentle (F7a+), on the far left Paul added The Weakening Eye of Day (F7a+) to the right of The Ribblesdale Ripper and another traverse Transformations (F7a) across the compact wall leftwards from Wee Doritt. Nigel added Making the Grade (F6c?) - and caused another grade debate in the process - on the isolated buttress near the gully in the centre of the crag. Not to be outdone I added two rising traverses at more amenable grades from right to left across the Birthday Girls wall. Gate Crasher (6b+) takes a lower line and One for the Road (F6a+) runs parallel but at a higher level. I think that just about exhausts the possibilities at Moughton except I've got one really good name left to fit with the Arthurian theme - I just need to find a line to use it on! Not much new at Foredale since my last report though there are a few lines still under 'construction'. The only recent additions being Cactus Jack (F6a) and Cotton Eyed Joe (F6a+) in the Baywatch area and Schloss Adler (F5+) to the left of Foreplay. All courtesy of Bob Larkin. Glyn Edwards and Nigel Baker added a long but varied route to the right of Norwegian Wood at Low Stony Bank. Rich as Cresus (F6a+) was originally going to be called Perch Tree Wall due to the possibility of bridging into an Ash Tree to avoid the crux. However, the branch may not survive for long so the name was changed.

Ben Hirst on the Folly. Castlebergh. Photo D Musgrove.

The only really hard new route reported to me recently is at Kilnsey where Matt Troilett added another powerful extension to WYSIWYG. The Perfect Storm (F7c+) is a logical left hand companion to Matt's Dead Calm (F8a) completed last year. On the 'significant repeat' front Karin Magog red-pointed Climb of the Century F8b at Malham.

Keith Morgan on The Talbot Arms. Castleberg. Photo D. Musgrove.

Notwithstanding all the developments above the main focus of attention of our regular limestone activists has been centred on Castlebergh Crag above Settle. No records can be found of any previous climbing activity here although many have no doubt coveted the chance in the past. Nige Baker reckons the big central arete has been winking at him for years as he sat drinking coffee in the Naked Man café before heading off to Giggleswick or other local venues. Well, the arete winked once too often and Nigel eventually got his prize. A fortuitous chain of events led to the local Council closing access to the crag due to fears about its stability and then seeking the assistance of climbers to remove loose rock and vegetation to make it safe. A unique partnership between town council, climbers, residents and local businesses has transformed the cliff into a small but excellent mid-grade climbing venue with 24 identifiable routes with a grade range of F4 to F7b. A full mini-guide is downloadable from our downloads page and all the routes are listed in the database. The best routes are in the 6c/7a range and are centred around the big overhanging corner and undercut wall to its right. The rising traverse of The Settle-Carlisle Line (F7a) is an outstanding expedition requiring power and endurance. Nigel's arete Cave and Crag (F7a) is steep but requires more finesse, especially near the top. The big corner contains two excellent variations, Castleberg Outdoors by Glyn Edwards and The Talbot Arms by Paul Clarke (both at F6c+) whilst Johnny Walker's Environmental Understanding (F6c) is a brilliant line if you can overcome the first, infuriating move!

 Amongst the easier offerings worth seeking out are The Settle Festival (F4), Victoria Hall (F6a) and Off The Rails (F6a+). Some of the easy groove lines further left are still a bit rattley but should settle down (no pun intended there) with a bit more traffic. All the routes have by now had multiple ascents and all are worth doing. The crag faces west and is sheltered and quick drying. Some of the steeper routes can be climbed in the rain and I'm sure it will turn out to be a popular winter venue. Go check it out - and check out also the local shops, cafes and pubs that have sponsored the routes to the benefit of us all via the Yorkshire Bolt Fund.

And so, on to the gritstone and my only significant confirmed news comes from the north east stable of Tony Marr and Mike Tooke. At Slipstones the pair added Bitesize (VS5a) left of Cummins' Route and Trumps left-hand between Trumps and Aces High. Their best effort here, however, is The Handrail HVS 5a following the mid-height break between Easy Pickings and Zoom. The pair then added several optional variations. At Brimham the same pair added three routes. The best of the bunch, but said to very bold without a side runner is Mohole Arete (E1 5b) whilst a new Diff and V.Diff further right complete the set. Andy Blakeley paid a visit to the long under used Halton Heights Quarry and found a worthwhile line on the pinnacle of Easter Island. A Right Cheek (HS 4a) climbs, yes you've guessed it, the centre of the right hand face. Calderdale gurus David Boekstyns and Gordon Mason have been busy excavating a previously undocumented quarry near Heptonstall. There are 10 routes so far from Hard Severe to E2 all up to 22m in height. The pair have a little more work to do to finish a couple more routes and clean up some of the finishes but the venue is said to be sheltered and south facing with very good rock. Full details next time! Finally, all the area bird restrictions are now lifted with 4 peregrines raised at Malham, 2 at Langcliffe but apparently the breeding attempt failed at Blue Scar this year. Ravens also bred successfully at several sites and are now a much more common sight in the Yorkshire Dales. The YDNPA has expressed thanks to all climbers for observing the restrictions.

Ben Hirst on Practically Everything. Castleberg. Photo D. Musgrove.

Dave Musgrove 7.7.09

Yorkshire News - Spring 2009

Well, Spring is almost here. At least by the time you read this it will be almost Easter, the days are getting longer and, fingers crossed the crags are drying out. It has been one of the coldest winters for many years with lots of snow and cold winds so many of you will not be expecting that much will have been going on the new route scene. Wrong. Something like 200 new routes have been added to Yorkshire crags since Christmas and some of them are pretty impressive, particularly on the Grit.

First off the mark on New Year's Eve two good lines were added to the Narrow Buttress of Crow Crag at Brimham. Scarecrow (E4 6a) and Stone the Crows (E5 6b) were climbed by Matt Troilett and Neil MacCallum respectively. The pair also added a couple of impressive V6 boulder problems Bucking Broncos and Rodeo Rider to the Bovine Buttress area.

Bigger things were brewing, however, at Ilkley where Ryan Pasquill finally knocked off Yorkshire's most famous and probably longest standing Last Great Problem. Gerty Berwick (E9 7a/b) is the centre of the face left of New Statesman on The Cow and had repelled many of the best British climbers of the last 2 decades. The climb involves long reaches and tiny razor-sharp crimps with no protection for the Font 8a crux at around 7 metres. Amazingly, the route was repeated a couple of weeks later by James Pearson who confirmed the grade.

Another impressive repeat was made by Jordan Buys who finally bagged the second ascent of Widdop Wall (E9 7a) some 11 years after it was first climbed. Another gritstone guru, Dave Sutcliffe has been busy at Baildon Bank adding a couple of mere E6s with Zola Budd and Congressman Dilbeck. Jason Bowerbank added Brighton Lady and Brighton Baby here as well at the more amenable grades of E1 and E2 respectively. At Brimham Danny Coultrup squeezed another fine eliminate up Left Wall in the shape of ResErection (E6 6c), this is essentially a harder and more direct version of Resurrection. It is a fine compliment to Danny's last effort here, Si's Cheese Slice E4 6c, completed last year. The same climber has also found a new and amazingly obvious problem at Almscliff, Stallone's Stinking Banger (V8/F7b) above The Left Wing on Flying Arete. Left: Danny Coultrup on Si's Cheese Slice.

Embsay Crag between Deer Gallows and Eastby resisted all attempts to record its charms until a few years ago when Karl Bromelow documented the first three most obvious lines. John Hunt added several minor gems the following year but then forced Carmelia (E3 5c) on a cold day this January to bring the total to eight and make the walk-up worthwhile. Another, essentially bouldering crag to get the full treatment is High Crag Stump Cross where Malcolm Townsley has put together a useful mini-guide with around 30 problems and micro-routes Finally on the grit Phil Osborne and Nigel Wright added Vrecka's Arete (HVS) to the Little Greeny buttress at Earl Crag and Andrew James and Connor Brown added Widening Horizons (VS 4c) to Lord's Seat.   Right: Danny Coultrap on Stallone's Stinking Bangor. Photo J. Burrows

On the Limestone the sheer volume of new routes from Barry Clarke in the Ingleton area is staggering, with well over a hundred additions this year so far. The majority of the new lines are in Kingsdale in the vicinity of Tow Scar. The Escarpment known as Keld Head Scar now boasts 96 routes and Back Tow Scar, nearby, received another 18. Across the valley on George's Scar (a continuation around the corner from Twistleton), Barry has added another 22. On Raven Scar and its outliers, Southerscales and Crinna Bottom there are now over 120 new lines since the guide was published, though some of these are the work of others a couple of years ago. Barry has also added another new sector to the lower tier at Chapel-Le-Dale where around 20 new climbs can be found on the right-hand side above the parking area. He has also been busy on Winskill Stones and Buckhaw Brow. The routes are too numerous to describe in detail here but if Sub-HVS micro-routes amid the grandeur of some of the best Dales scenery is what you enjoy these may be worth checking out from our database.

Barry's activities urged that other North Craven pioneer Karl Lunt to put pen to paper and write up some of his earlier lines on Braida Garth Scar, another Kingsdale craglet, Karl and Tom Phillips recorded 11 routes here last year, mainly in the HVS 5b range and, on average, slightly longer than Barry's offerings.

So finally, on to the bolts. Moughton Nab, despite its high and apparently exposed setting has proved its worth this winter during the cold north westerly winds. Facing south east it has stayed relatively sheltered and the area know known as the Soft Centre on this face dries quickly as well, staying in the sun until mid afternoon. There are around 30 short bolted lines here now in the sub F6c range which should prove popular with climbers who have enjoyed the Giggleswick, Panorama, Robin Proctor's experience. Most of the latest offerings have been added by Bob Larkin, Paul Farrish and myself with occasional help from Nigel Baker, Keith Morgan and Mick Johnson. Worth checking out - the details are all in the database?

Dave Musgrove on The End is Nigh. Photo N. Baker

At nearby Foredale Quarry a few gaps have been filled on the Back O' Beyond Buttress which gets all the winter sunshine that's going. From the left the new routes are Palaentology (F6a+), Rubble Rouser (F6a), Play Misty (F6a+), Back Street Gossip (F6a). All before you get to the existing second route, Sunnyside Up. On the right-hand side is Eccles Cake Walk (F6b) and The End is Nigh (F6a+) both shorter lines but on excellent rock either-side of Go with the Flow. Bob Larkin ventured into the shady cold on the Hidden Walls but emerged having plugged the big gap between The End and All Along the Watch-Tower. His route became Ethical Nightmare (F6c), however, when he decided he needed to climb it twice because of needing to rest on the ledge between early attempts on the fingery crux headwall. He wasn't sure he could do it again - but did so in fine style (more than can be said for me!) Bob Larkin also had a busy day at Robin Proctor's Scar adding two more easy lines to the right-hand buttress, Appleoosa (F5+) and Pale Rider (F5). He also bolted the line just left of Central Gully to the existing belay of Just Cruising as Interloper (F6a).

Mick Johnson and Dick Tong, bolted and climbed a couple of easy-ish lines on an obscure buttress to the left of Sector Limelight at Giggleswick about 18 months ago but a couple of harder projects on the same wall defeated them then. Mick returned last month, spurred on by Nigel Baker and Keith Morgan to complete the excellent and technical Gee Gee Groove (F6c). So that's how it stands at present. There are the usual Spring bird restrictions for Peregrines in place at Malham (left-hand side), Gordale (top pitches of routes above Cave Route and trad lines opposite around Face Route). Blue Scar (the whole crag) and Langcliffe (the whole crag). These restrictions should be lifted by mid July. There are also Ravens nesting on High Stony Bank and Old Man's Crag, Troller's Gill which should be avoided until the 1st of June. The good news is that once the restriction is lifted at Langcliffe we have now negotiated access to the whole of the left side of the quarry which has been out of bounds for the last 3 years.

Keith Morgan on the 2nd ascent of Gee Gee Grove. Photo N. Baker

Dave Musgrove, 25th March 2009

Yorkshire News - December 2008

With the hyper-active team of new routers currently operating in Yorkshire it is dangerous to say that developments for 2008 are finally complete but now seems as good a time as any to complete the review of the climbing year in the county.

There has been a lot of activity on Limestone, until a couple of months ago most of it involving bolted routes but a recent flurry of solo pioneering from Barry Clarke in the Ingleton area has ensured that the number of new trad routes now well exceeds the sport route total for this year.

On the grit there has been far less route development but significant new bouldering areas have been discovered (or rediscovered and documented for the first time).

Access issues have, fortunately, been minor and solvable but the situation still remains delicate in some areas and the often apparently instant popularity of newly developed areas is the biggest problem. However, The first official access agreement for Giggleswick South - owned by Giggleswick School and managed as an SSSI by Natural England - has been formally agreed with the help of the YDNPA and the BMC and new public information notices should be erected soon near the start of the access path. A similar agreement covering the approach to Foredale Quarry has been negotiated with the farmer and cottage owners and signs regarding parking and the approach route are now in place. Dogs are still the farmer's big concern here. Some better news on access at Langcliffe is rumoured to be on the cards next year. Watch this space for details.

Glyn Edwards on Headless Hammer Low Stony Bank

The Stony Banks At the time of my last report in August limestone sport development was centred on Low Stony Bank and Paul Clarke continued to fill a few more gaps there. Nigel Baker and Glyn Edwards, however went prospecting upstream and added Headless Hammer (F6b+) to the right side of High Stony before giving a completely new look to the long neglected Platypus Buttress. Wicked Ways (F6c), The Jericho Incident (F6c+) and Crazy Little Devil (F7a) were followed by the thin arete of Harlot (F7a+) from John Hunt and the inevitable diagonal Berlin (F7b) from Paul Clarke. I added Dead Kinky (F6b) on the left side of the main crag. This valley now hosts 26 sport routes (F6a to 7b) to compliment its long established traditional fare, none of which is significantly compromised by the bolting. Give it a try next spring for something a bit different with an 'away from it all' feel. It should get into decent condition by early April once the sun gets a bit higher in the sky. Both crags face south west and get plenty of sunshine.

Foredale Quarry

As Autumn approached and most sane folk thought Foredale was a bit high and cold for climbing Bob Larkin and friends persevered and cleaned up several more lines including some on previously over-looked buttresses on the west (east-facing) wall. In September Black Magic (F6a+) provided a pleasant groove in the rib right of Dark Secrets whilst just to its right, on the left side of the main wall Gil Peel and Bob added Mistaken Identity (F6b+) which climbs to a tricky finish near the base of the big upper corner. Harder still Gil added the very fine Bridge Too Far (F6c+) to the right of Shot in the Dark. I tentatively explored the big area of rock around the huge perched overlap that bounds the upper right hand section of the main wall and added Dicing with Damocles (F6b+) which skirts around the base before sneaking into the upper groove from the right.

Bob then cleaned 3 lines in the Amphitheatre but bolted and climbed only one, Twinkletoes (F6b+), due to constant autumn seepage. The East facing walls between here and the Hidden Wall Sector were less prone to the damp and the big easy angled broken slab became The Magic Staircase (F3) and probably the easiest sport climb in the county. A steeper buttress near the foot of the spoil heaps gave the somewhat shorter but still peasant Castor (F5+) and Pollux (F5). Gemini, in a hollow just right again is still under construction needing one more bolt. Even Barry Clarke put in an appearance in November and proceeded to solo 10 new lines in one day. Most were very short, some on the east (west facing) walls to the left of Mugwub and others to the right of Creature but two were more substantial on the west walls. Cirith Ungol (VS 4b) has two pitches just right of the amphitheatre and Mountain Ear Ring (VS 4c) is an arete right of Bay Watch. The shorter routes may be OK if you like that sort of thing but only the more adventurous with fully paid-up life insurance should contemplate the two longer lines. Not the sort of routes that most Foredale regulars come for!

Nigel Baker on Crazy Little Devil High Stony Bank

Moughton Nab

Moughton was never my favourite venue. The older and easier trad routes are short and generally scrappy and the so called classic E4 the Moughton Mauler left quite an uncomfortable and long-lasting impression on my shoulder tendons a few years ago. The harder and seriously crimpy Clarke/Dalzell creations from the 1980s were seriously under-graded and the newer gymnastic Clarke/Baker sport routes on the overhanging buttress further right were not my favourite style. However, I was tempted into another visit at the end of October as the Baker/Clarke machine reported a rejuvenation of some of the older peg-protected desperates on the crimpy wall and promised that there were several gaps ripe for the picking further right. I was sceptical at first watching Paul claw his way up a new desperate looking eliminate 7b and Nigel engineering his way over the roof right of the Mauler, later led by Paul as The Ribblesdale Ripper (F7b+). However, perseverance paid off and as I got into the 'Moughton mood' new routes of a more amenable nature started to appear in significant numbers.

So, this is the story so far from left to right: Too Strong to Dislocate (F6b) from Ian Durham and John Hunt is closest to the Nab Itself. All the old 'Thomas Hardy' lines are now fully bolted with grades between F6c+ and F7b plus Paul has added three eliminates in similar style in between. Wee Doritt (F5) is the only reasonable warm up on this sector based on a right hand variant of Hatstand. All these routes are undeniably on very fine and compact rock. Its such a pity they are so short.

About 100 metres further right the wall becomes higher and more compact again eventually reaching the sector that Glyn Edwards developed a few years ago with a handful of short trad lines and 3 semi bolted sport routes. The sector, now with around 25 routes in the F5 to F6c range is generally defined between a dry-stone wall which runs up to the crag and the big overhanging cave sector on the extreme right. The first of the new routes Modred (F6b) is just left of the dry-stone wall although Bob Larkin has designs on 2 more on the same wall. Just right of the wall I added Myth and Magic (F6a) and Guinivere (F5) whilst Nigel Baker added A Winter's Tale up a groove and arete right again. The obvious recessed wall gave John Hunt the technical Avalon (F6c) hilst I added the trio of Joust in Time (F6a+), Sir Lunchalot (F5+) and Arthurian Ledge End (F6a) on the next wall. Nigel created the problematic King of the Castle (F6c) over the small roof left of Glyn's old route Camelot (HVS 5a), the inspiration for most of the new silly names. Paul Farrish added Knights of Old (F6b) and Bob Larkin squeezed in Merlin (F5+) and pulled hard (groan) on Excalibur(F6a). Credit Crunch (F6b+) is just right of the older Economical Routes whilst Stoatal Recall (F5+)and Ferretting Around (F6a+)are either side of Weasel Crack. Finally Party Pooper (F6b) and Party Trick (F6a) complete the set in the vicinity of The Birthday girl trad lines.

Please continue to approach Moughton from the public footpath and stile on the Austwick road (same as for Panorama Crag). The access from the Foredale parking area looks appealing but is still not agreed with the farmer and the reality is that both approaches take exactly the same time (about 15 - 20 minutes).       Left: Dave on the slightly tricky approach to Stony Bank!

Trad Limestone

Firstly, I have been aware for some time that the diagram of the main slab area at Crummackdale (page 126 of the 2005 YMC Guide) has been causing some confusion and it was reported recently that someone fell off Olympus Trip (E3) thinking they were climbing Sausage Fat (HVS). Both routes are very close together and having re-visited the crag myself I have now re-drawn the lines for the routes 36 to 45 (Generation Gap to Juno) in an effort to clarify the area. The revised topo is available as a free download from this site. Most areas of this crag are relatively featureless and the exact lines of many routes here have been debated for years. Most of the routes on the central slab were quite generously graded to take account of the vagueness of line so if you feel your chosen route is too hard you may well be off route. Take extra care until you get to know the crag well.

Twisleton, Chapel Le Dale and Raven Scar

Since Barry Clarke moved to Ingleton earlier this year the whole area has seen a massive reappraisal and something like 200 new additions to existing sectors of the main crags but also to previously overlooked areas on the extremities or upper tiers as well as completely new crags around the left end of Twisleton into Kingsdale (Georges Scar) and the area about a mile left of Raven Scar on the hillside above the Hill Inn (Southerscales Scar).

Almost all of Barry's additions are short, from 4 to 8metres, and most have been soloed. Some have questioned the validity of many as routes at all, (the old guidebook criteria defining a 'route' as being a minimum of 6 metres in height), however as they have been clearly recorded and described I have included them all on the database as accurately as I can for others to judge their worthiness for inclusion in any future guide. I hold no strong opinion myself and although I'm sure there are unlikely to be any real classics amongst them I am equally aware that many climbers still like short soloable routes if the rock quality is good. The ever increasing band of specialist boulderers amongst you may well find even harder variants between Barry's lines.

Gritstone

Since my last report in August there has been only one significant new route addition on the grit. French Duke E8/9 7a climbed by Jordan Buys in November is the prow to the right of Mind Bomb at Earl Crag and looks pretty impressive on the video download available via UKC.

Few boulderers submit individual new problems direct to me. However, trying to keep my ear to the ground I can report three new bouldering venues that may be of interest. Firstly at Widdop, Matt Troilett spent much of the summer, in between the showers, cleaning up and documenting about 60 new problems all on boulders around and above the main edge, completely separate to the already popular and well known lower boulder field. His efforts culminated in the Widdopstock climbing festival in September with around 50 boulderers taking part in an informal competition on the new problems, with a big party in the pub afterwards. Prizes and sponsorship for the event came from Fell & Mountain, a local climbing shop in Accrington who have sponsored several bolt fund events in the past. A big thank you to them. The mini-guide with lots of photos of the event is available from our downloads page.     Right: Widdopstock - Libel Arete

Secondly John Hunt has a produced a PDF mini guide to a newly documented boulder field above Hebden Gill near Grassington. The Temple of the Winds or Bolton Haw Crags are they are marked on the map currently host 25 problems up to V3 but there is probably scope for more.

Even more recently forestry work at Norwood Edge near Otley has revealed several fine boulders that have lain hidden undisturbed in the woods for the last hundred years. Robin Warden, Amanda Phillips, Ross Williams Simon Marsdon and Matt Wilcox spent 4 weeks, including some 'night work' apparently, cleaning and climbing around 40 problems up to V9. Info for these can be found on www.yorkshiregrit.com or in a different format from Carl Dawson's excellent web-site www.kirkleesclimbing.co.uk/norwood.html .

Finally, have a great Christmas and a succesful new year. Thanks to all of you who have supported theYorkshire scene over the last 10 years or so since I have been recording developments on this web-site and in Climber Magazine. Sadly my association with Climber appears to have now come to an end due to lack of space, interest in Yorkshire News or maybe my meagre journalistic powers. I'm not sure; I've not been told but recent submissions have neither been acknowledged nor published and my emails to the editor have remained unanswered. So apologies to any of you expecting to see your name and photos in print in that magazine. I will however continue to record Yorkshire new routes and endeavour to bring fuller and more regular narrative news columns like this on this web-site at regular intervals. Your comments and feedback are particularly welcome via the comments facilities on the site or direct to me at davem7b@btinternet.com

Dave Musgrove
December 2008

Summer (Monsoon) Update 2008

I may just be wrong but in 44 years of climbing in Yorkshire this is the wettest summer I can remember. Last year was bad but at least we had a reasonable spring. Nevertheless our hardy team of local pioneers have doggedly battled with the wind, rain, humidity and bumper swarms of midges just to bring you a fresh crop of exciting new routes to savour in what we can only hope will be a dry autumn.

Since my last update there have been major developments with big numbers at Kilnsey including a new F9a from Steve McClure, an 8b+ from Gaz Parry and an 8a from Matt Troilett along with some re-bolting work on Little Ernie (now a good 3 star 7b+) and Soft Option (F8a).

Before the weather got really bad Bob Larkin added another 30 metre pitch up the right edge of the big cave at Foredale. This one is not for the feint hearted however as the precariously stacked blocks it climbs are more reminiscent of a giant Jenga! I also added a similarly suspect line to the left of Scorpion. Fine Climbing but just what is holding that huge overhang up? Paul Farrish added a couple of more conventional lines to the Hidden Walls at F5+ and F6c.

Blue Scar re-opened for business on the first of July and despite atrocious wet conditions spawned 7 new routes within a couple of weeks. The far right-hand wall, beyond Phase Two was cleaned up by Paul Farrish, Bob Larkin and I to give 5 new lines in the F5 to F6c category but as none have yet been climbed in completely dry conditions the grades may well change. Bob Larkin plugged the gap between Rising Passions and Harder and Ardour to create a tough but high quality F6b aptly named Rising Damp. A new 7a+ from Paul Clarke completed the set before the crag became completely saturated and has stayed so for the last month or so.

The most significant developments of the period, however, have been at Low Stony Bank where Glyn Edwards added 3 more new lines to the 2 good ones he created there last year. The furthest right, Norwegian Wood (F6b+), is a very varied and atmospheric 30 metre pitch. Paul Clarke then got hooked on the crag and added another 4 big lines on the main wall and 2 short problems on the opposite side, all in the 7a/b range. John Hunt added a technical 7a and Nigel Baker another improbable looking, but apparently surprisingly amenable F6b+. The action then moved back up stream to High Stony but there may be still more to come from this hidden valley in the near future - if the river ever subsides enough to get across again!

Troller's Gill seemed to resist the rains better than most for a while and Nigel Baker added another 7a to the Bookends wall. I consoled myself with 4 short easier lines F5 to 6a, two at the top end of the left wall and two on the Pumpkin buttress. Non are worth travelling a long way for but add a bit to the variety of this pleasant little gorge.

The only other new Sport Route I've heard of is at Gordale where Matt Troilett and Ian Fenton climbed the atmospheric, Nowt for Nearly (F6c+) above the waterfall to the right of Hungerford Massacre. Not a route for a busy weekend!

Trad Limestone development is in serious decline in Yorkshire but John Hunt and Bev Connor managed a couple of new variants at Pot Scar. At nearby Feizor Nick there were reports of the farmer turning climbers off the crag. This area is Open Access land under the CRoW Act so the BMC is investigating.

On the Grit the most interesting new developments have been a clean-up and re-appraisal of Darby Delph from David Boeckstyns and Gordon Mason who added half a dozen new routes or so in the process. Most are in the HVS range on the West Wall. The same pair have also made a rare addition to Horsehold Scout in the Calder Valley.

Matt Troilett and Ian Fenton found two new, or at least previously unrecorded, gems on Mystery Buttress at Widdop Busty's Arete and the Kryptonite Finish are both E3 6a so add a modern dimension to this very traditional old crag.

At Brimham, Danny Coultup has added a significant eliminate up the wall between Lithos and Pathos. Si's Cheese Slice weighs in at E4 6b/c but fortunately only P1 with side runners placed in Pathos.

The dependable Cleveland Team of Tony Marr and Mike Took have continued to scour the Barden Moors for new routes and variants making several additions to Deer Gallows, Crookrise and Rolling Gate and claim their best route of the recent batch, a new 3 star HS, Rolling Arete, to be even better than Rolling Gate Buttress.

Finally, Malcolm Townsley continued his lonely vigil of remote corners of Yorkshire Grit finding two short E1 6a's on Ash Head Crag before developing and documenting a completely new bouldering venue on the slopes of Beamsley Beacon. There are 20 problems so far, mainly in the sub-V4 grade range but they will no doubt prove popular with the connoisseurs of such venues being within a twenty minute walk of the road. A full guide with photo diagrams can be downloaded from this site.

Descriptions of all the above, and probably several I've forgotten, are available in full on the New Routes pages of this web-site.

Dave Musgrove 21/8/08


STOP PRESS - Brunthwaite Crag

This crag is on private land (not subject to CRoW). The owner of the land has requested that people do not climb there. The BMC Area Access Officer is aware of the situation and is negotiating with the owner to try and restore access. For now we have removed the topo from our downloads section at the request of the author. Please check back for more news.

Yorkshire Scene - Apring 2008

The new routing year got off to a slow start thanks to fairly miserable winter weather nevertheless developments got underway fairly quickly at the more sheltered venues of Panorama crag, Giggleswick North and Troller's Gill. Things were a bit slower to develop on the grit but when things did start to happen it was, perhaps quite surprisingly, on an outlying buttress at Guisecliffe and the esoteric and north facing Air Scar near Burnsall.

John Hunt and Tim Fryer got things started at Air Scar with an E2 and E3 which they claim now make the trek through the bracken worth the effort. They then turned their attention to Crocodile Crag, discovered in 1999 by Tony Barley but only recently 'released' to a wider audience. John, Tim and I under the watchful eye and direction of Mr B himself added 3 routes including an excellent E3 rib and over the next few weeks the Tim and John added several more boulder problems and micro-routes. Our visit was quite timely as Nigel Poustie and Paul Clough had also been sniffing around on a raid from the nearby Nought Bank Boulders which are proving ever more popular thanks to wider coverage on www.yorkshiregrit.com

Other grit tit-bits were added at Ilkley where Jonny Briggs added 2 more variants to the Sylveste wall of No 5 buttress and a variation finish to Kestrel which looks quite interesting for its grade at E2. Pride of place here however goes to Sean Jacobs for his 2nd E5, Turboprop which climbs boldly up the wall left of Old Crack. Finally, the first new routes since the guide came out have been added to Darby Delph by David Boekstyns and Gordon Mason but the quarry is now bird-banned until mid July so you'll just have to be patient before rushing over to try these little gems!

On the Limestone Panorama crag has quite amazingly spawned 27 routes so far with suggestions that the total may well top 30 once Bob Larkin has finished cleaning the one remaining big gap which is still rather loose. This is now a great little venue if bolted routes of 6 to 10 metres are your thing. The grade range is well spread between F5+ and F7a with several of the harder routes providing butch starts ideal for power training but not so good for improving your stamina. A new topo is available on the downloads page. Paul Clarke, Nigel Baker and Keith Morgan are the main culprits here.

The same team have been busy at Troller's Gill where Nigel has squeezed 2 excellent F6c's on to the bookends wall and Paul Clarke has created a 30m traversing extravaganza across the left side of the main wall which is actually rather good at F7a+. Also excellent is a more direct bolted version of Angelic Upstart which now goes at F7a and makes excellent use of the upper left arete. I squeezed another line of bolts in to the compact upper wall on the right of Brute Direct to provide a good easier line but one with several possible micro variants for the true connoisseur.

Over at Giggleswick North Mick Johnson, Dick Tong and Bob Larkin have rejuvenated the long neglected Woodcutter's buttress with 9 sport routes in the F5 to F6b+ range. Names have been slow in coming but they should be added to the database fairly soon. On the same crag Neil McCallum has re-equipped Mainlining which now gives a worthwhile F7b+.

Development at Foredale started late because of the weather but then stalled for a while because the farmer got upset about a group of campers in the quarry. The situation has now been resolved but relationships are still delicate here. Please follow any on site signage being prepared and placed by the BMC and remember - No Dogs, No Fires, No parking other than the big area on the bend between the working quarry and the farm, and above all No camping! Two quality easy routes have since been added by Bob Larkin and a 30m 3 star 6c+ on the main wall by Gil Peel. Paul Clarke has also contrived a 7a left to right traverse across the Hidden Walls which has proved to be a bit of a test to the few have tried subsequent repeats.

On the trad limestone front Will Kelsall and Ali Kennedy have added a rare E4 to the left wing at Malham Cove and Karl Lunt and Tom Phillips have climbed 6 lines on a totally new venue near Tow Scar north of Ingleton. One of the lines, the hardest of the bunch sports two bolts for protection at 6c+/7a though a trad belay is still required on top. Is Karl Lunt being converted to the dark-side at last?

Bird restrictions are still in place at Langcliffe, Blue Scar; on the Caveat Wall at Malham and certain areas of Gordale due to nesting Peregrines but the restriction due to Ravens at High Stony Bank has now been lifted as the young birds have now fledged.

Dave Musgrove May 2008.

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