Yorkshire News - Autumn 2009

Another rather non-descript Yorkshire summer failed to live up to its early promise but nevertheless was a big improvement on 2008. The main focus of development throughout July and August was Blue Scar on the limestone and I now have full details of the big gritstone find near Heptonstall.

Starting with Blue Scar 3 new sport lines in the vicinity of Rising Passions proved instantly popular. The lower halves of Bonny Masson's old E2s Dark Summer and Desire cleaned up well and now have lower-offs below the dodgy overlap. At F6b and F6a+ respectively they have certainly had more ascents in the last few months than they ever had in 24 years as trad lines. Paul Clarke also added a new line, Meaty, Beaty, Big and Bouncy (F6b+) straight up through the diagonal of Rising Passions and I created a frivolous rising traverse across the 'passions wall' called All Embracing (F6a+) which finishes above Weighting in the Wings.

The action then shifted to the Grey Wall where more old Masson and Gomersall lines were re-claimed from the undergrowth and bolted up to provide Dirty Harry (F6b), Break Free (F6c) and The Sybil Speaks (F6c). All now clean and on good quality rock. To the right I added Blue Sky Thinking (F6c+) and Aquamarine (F6b+) whilst Paul Clarke created Sudden Impact (F7a+) a crimpy eliminate just left of Dirty Harry. Paul Farrish then set to work on the more vegetated wall further left still and added Do You Feel Lucky (F6c), Magnum Force (F6b+) and Make My Day (F6b). Thanks go to Bonny Masson for permission to modernise her old routes which are now the 3 star centre-pieces of this long neglected but now excellent wall.

At Kilnsey Crag Aaron Tonks added Le Lapin et le Pigeon (F8a) as a direct eliminate to Myra Hindley and Mark Radtke extended New Mystique into a 30metre pitch up the right wall of the gully with Fatoliti's Cat (F6c). Another hard line was squeezed out of the left wall at Troller's Gill where Andy Chrome found The Tinderbox (F7c+) up the vague flake to the right of Spent Youth. Malcolm Townsley went prospecting at Gate Cote Scar and added The Logical Positivist's Variation (HVS 5b) via a short traverse and groove above The Fire Below.

At Foredale Quarry a couple of lines that Bob Larkin had cleaned several months ago finally dried out and the bolts went in. Waltzing Matilda (F6a+) is the left hand line in the Amphitheatre, on good rock and with an interesting finish. On the right side of the Hidden Walls sector he also climbed the obvious, twisting Winking Crack (F6b). Further right still in The Bay area Ken Suggett, Bob and I added Bomb Bay (F6a+) a varied route which finishes up the vertical hand-jam crack. And Mick Johnson climbed the slab and arete to its left as Nose Job (F6b). Back in the Amphitheatre Paul Farrish added a diagonal line left of Twinkle toes and a direct finish to the latter route. Both around F6a + but still need a bit more work with the crow bar.

At Giggleswick South on the Stone Cold Crazy Buttress Bob Larkin and I added Mini Gem (F5+) and Saving the Day (F6a+) and extended DDD to a new and more logical belay further right. Back on the popular end John Hunt created a left to right rising traverse of Sector Golf, The Belfry (F6b+). Meanwhile, at Robin Proctor's Scar Gone with the Wind is a new F5+ from Bob Larkin climbing the well cleaned groove to the right of Central Buttress.

The Main Wall at Langcliffe Quarry has seen its first action for 4 years when the year-round bird ban was finally lifted this summer. Glyn Edwards finally got to climb Moonwalk (F6b+) which he had prepared in 2005 just as the moratorium came into force. This is a combination route which climbs Walking the Dog, past its lower-off to a new belay on a higher ledge. The ledge is then traversed to the right where an atmospheric top pitch starts up a short corner and continues up an exposed wall to the top of the crag. Because of the ban on drilling here no new bolts have been placed but that didn't deter Glyn and Angela Soper from cleaning up and re-climbing the main pitches of the old Livesey test-piece The Black Table (E1 5b). This is now a much more feasible proposition with several new peg runners to supplement the sparse natural placements. Between Black Table and The Corner the same pair added a completely new line The Bleach Party (45m HVS/E1 5a). New pegs and adequate natural protection make this an enjoyable experience if double ropes are used. Further left the aptly named The Silence of the drills (E1 5b) takes a groove in the arete to the left of Silver Buttons but clips the odd bolt on that line en-route.

At Malham there is news of a couple of significant repeats. First Jenny Woodward made an impressive red-point of Predator (F8b), the first female ascent and this was followed by Steve Crowe's ascent of the full height of the Cove via The Groove, Free and Easy and Breach of the Peace - new name Central Wall (F8b) This was completed all in one push on a very long rope and is only the second time in over 20 years the feat has been accomplished. John Dunne using a different finish being the first in the 1980s.

Finally, Barry Clarke has been less prolific than of late but still managed to fill a few gaps on the Apex Buttress at Attermire and the odd line at Twisleton.

Over to Gritstone now and the big news is of the Hidden Quarry at Heptonstall. This tree shrouded hole in the ground has been fully developed by Gordon Mason, David Boeckstyns and friends who have created 12 excellent lines in the Hard severe to E2 categories. The team claim that the rock quality is good and similar to that in the main quarry with routes up to 22metres in length climbing walls, cracks and overlaps. As no stars have been allocated on the script sent to me it is difficult to single out the best lines but Alice in Wonderland (VS 4c), Quarryman's Corner (HVS 5a), Electric Candle (E1 5b), Au Revoir Midi (E1 5b) and Venus Flytrap (E2 5c) may be enough to whet your appetites. It is a sheltered south facing spot with overhanging trees to keep the rain out. It could be a worthwhile winter venue? Full details of how to get there are provided below.

Whilst still out west David Boekstyns and Gordon Mason also paid another visit to Darby Delph and added Lizard (E2 5b) to the wall between Completion and Correction.

Back in the heart of our region a significant addition has made at Eldwick Crag, the often overlooked quarry near Dick Hudson's on the back of Ilkley Moor. Adi Gill has climbed Elevator (E6 6c) to the left hand side of the wall in the left hand bay. The route is 18 metres long and much bigger than I remember from looking in there years ago. There is also significant bouldering potential here as well.

Aid Gill on Elevator E6 6C at Eldwick Crag

Aid Gill on Elevator E6 6C at Eldwick Crag

The number of routes continues to grow at Embsay Crag above Skipton. Jamie Moss and Matt Kilner have recorded another 6 micro-routes here. Five are short severes with the hardest being Can You Touch It (VS 4c) to the right of the overhang group. The only other news from Barden Moor is of Grubfoot (E1 5c), which climbs the 1st arete at Halton Heights Quarry from Andrew Bancroft.

A more substantial eliminate was added to Cracked Buttress at Brimham recently when Jon Jewitt and Darryl Cavanagh contrived The Feel Good Hit of the Summer (E5 6b) between Parallel Cracks and Central Crack. Blinkers may be needed to avoid touching Central Crack as use of this reduces the grade to E3. At the same crag Jim Croft and Stuart Holmes added several routes including The Periwocky (E1 5b), in the Black Tower area, Rattlesnake (E1 5c) in the Watchdog area, A right hand start to Jackabu (E1 5c) on Zebra Buttress and several short pitches on what the bouldering guide refers to as The Threaded Block. Jim and Stuart know the block as The Eccles Cake and all their names follow this theme. The best is probably Icing on the Cake (HVS 5a), which is the continuation of an old boulder problem. At nearby Eavestone Crag Phillipe Osborne returned to Jib sail buttress 10 years on from creating his first routes there and added a new eliminate Thar She Blows (E5 6b).

 

 

For you bouldering fanatics John Hunt has compiled a mini-guide to the Roundhill Boulders in Upper Nidderdale. This is a very pleasant spot with similarities to nearby Slipstones. There are around 70 problems here first described and documented by Tony Barley and added to in recent years by several local worthies such as Chris Sowden, Steve Rhodes, Andy Swann, Jon Pearson and Francis Holland. John Hunt has pulled it all together and added a few eliminates of his own. The grades are generally relatively modest, but up to V6. The rock quality and aspect are superb.

Finally, for those of you who are expecting a hard winter this year the following write up of probably the best mixed climb in Yorkshire has been received from Carl McKeating and Rachel Crolla. The line, or at least variations on it have been climbed for years but I don't think it has ever been recorded before.

Black Shiver Gully 150mm I/II P1 * A winter route which climbs the distinct gully in the northwest face of Ingleborough. Undoubtedly climbed by generations of mountaineers looking for Yorkshire winter fun. Leave your ice screws behind, although the odd warthog and bulldog will prove handy, while taking a small selection of rock gear will aid flexibilty of line and adventure. 1. Ascend steepening snow to the short initial rock step - often banked out with drifted snow and harder than first appearances suggest, novices should belay here. 2. Climb the rock step direct or via an awkward variant on the right before trending immediately left to the main gully line. Continue up two more easier steps, to reach a good spike belay on the right (40m of rope from the initial step). 3. Steady snow leads to a wide broken amphitheatre, with a prominent small buttress centre left (40m). 4.Continue up the centre of the gully or, more interestingly, climb a short chimney (left of the small square buttress) before traversing precariously rightwards to the gully centre (30m). 5. Continue up to an escape in the centre of gully head via a short easy step or venture up a line on the steep broken rocks of the right wall (challenges to suit ability) (30m). 6. Hike 60m over level ground to the final tor where a short interesting line can be picked - more fun than it looks. Shelter from the wind and a spot for lunch can be found 60m further along at Ingleborough's summit shelter.

Dave Musgrove, 1st November 2009


HIDDEN QUARRY, HEPTONSTALL NGR: SD986274

By Gordon Mason and David Boeckstyns

A newly developed quarry known to Gordon Mason for several years but apparently, and surprisingly, overlooked by all other local activists. There is lots of potential here but the obvious lines have now all been cleaned and claimed. The rock is similar to the main quarry, with plenty of small overhangs, various size cracks and walls. The climbing is solid to about half height and then becomes overgrown with dense heather, therefore ledges have been dug out for the finishes. There are tree belays with some rope and peg lower offs. It is in a pleasant situation secluded and south facing with tree cover keeping it sheltered from the wind. It always seems to remain dry.

Approaches and access

 From the A646 Hebden Bridge to Todmorden road, just out of the town there is a set of traffic lights at the top of the hill with the Fox and Goose pub on the right hand side, Heptonstall Road leads up from here. If coming from Hebden Bridge you need to go past here to the turning circle and then come back. Go up Heptonstall Road for 300 metres, where there is a row of terraced houses on the right, you need to go past here so you can turn round and park on the road above the houses. Directly opposite the terraced houses there is a public footpath which leads up into the wood, walk up this path for 100 metres to where there is a junction of paths, walk on for a further 50 metres and just before the path emerges from the wood there is a vague hidden path on your right which leads directly into the quarry. Time from car 5 minutes. Alternatively you could park on the Social Club car park in Heptonstall and walk down into the quarry


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