 Yorkshire
News - Autumn 2009
Another rather non-descript Yorkshire summer failed to live up to its
early promise but nevertheless was a big improvement on 2008. The main
focus of development throughout July and August was Blue Scar on the
limestone and I now have full details of the big gritstone find near
Heptonstall.
Starting with Blue Scar 3 new sport lines in the vicinity of Rising
Passions proved instantly popular. The lower halves of Bonny Masson's old
E2s Dark Summer and Desire cleaned up well and now have lower-offs below
the dodgy overlap. At F6b and F6a+ respectively they have certainly had
more ascents in the last few months than they ever had in 24 years as trad
lines. Paul Clarke also added a new line, Meaty, Beaty, Big and Bouncy
(F6b+) straight up through the diagonal of Rising Passions and I created a
frivolous rising traverse across the 'passions wall' called All Embracing
(F6a+) which finishes above Weighting in the Wings.
The action then shifted to the Grey Wall where more old Masson and
Gomersall lines were re-claimed from the undergrowth and bolted up to
provide Dirty Harry (F6b), Break Free (F6c) and The Sybil Speaks (F6c).
All now clean and on good quality rock. To the right I added Blue Sky
Thinking (F6c+) and Aquamarine (F6b+) whilst Paul Clarke created
Sudden
Impact (F7a+) a crimpy eliminate just left of Dirty Harry. Paul Farrish
then set to work on the more vegetated wall further left still and added
Do You Feel Lucky (F6c), Magnum Force (F6b+) and Make My Day (F6b). Thanks
go to Bonny Masson for permission to modernise her old routes which are
now the 3 star centre-pieces of this long neglected but now excellent
wall.
At Kilnsey Crag Aaron Tonks added Le Lapin et le Pigeon (F8a) as a
direct eliminate to Myra Hindley and Mark Radtke extended New Mystique
into a 30metre pitch up the right wall of the gully with Fatoliti's Cat
(F6c). Another hard line was squeezed out of the left wall at Troller's
Gill where Andy Chrome found The Tinderbox (F7c+) up the vague flake to
the right of Spent Youth. Malcolm Townsley went prospecting at Gate Cote
Scar and added The Logical Positivist's Variation (HVS 5b) via a short
traverse and groove above The Fire Below.
At Foredale Quarry a couple of lines that Bob Larkin had cleaned
several months ago finally dried out and the bolts went in. Waltzing
Matilda (F6a+) is the left hand line in the Amphitheatre, on good rock and
with an interesting finish. On the right side of the Hidden Walls sector
he also climbed the obvious, twisting Winking Crack (F6b). Further right
still in The Bay area Ken Suggett, Bob and I added Bomb Bay (F6a+) a
varied route which finishes up the vertical hand-jam crack. And Mick
Johnson climbed the slab and arete to its left as Nose Job (F6b). Back in
the Amphitheatre Paul Farrish added a diagonal line left of Twinkle toes
and a direct finish to the latter route. Both around F6a + but still need
a bit more work with the crow bar.
At Giggleswick South on the Stone Cold Crazy Buttress Bob Larkin and I
added Mini Gem (F5+) and Saving the Day (F6a+) and extended
DDD to a new
and more logical belay further right. Back on the popular end John Hunt
created a left to right rising traverse of Sector Golf, The Belfry (F6b+).
Meanwhile, at Robin Proctor's Scar Gone with the Wind is a new F5+ from
Bob Larkin climbing the well cleaned groove to the right of Central
Buttress.
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The Main Wall at Langcliffe Quarry has
seen its first action for 4 years when the year-round bird ban was
finally lifted this summer. Glyn Edwards finally got to climb
Moonwalk (F6b+) which he had prepared in 2005 just as the moratorium
came into force. This is a combination route which climbs Walking
the Dog, past its lower-off to a new belay on a higher ledge. The
ledge is then traversed to the right where an atmospheric top pitch
starts up a short corner and continues up an exposed wall to the top
of the crag. Because of the ban on drilling here no new bolts have
been placed but that didn't deter Glyn and Angela Soper from
cleaning up and re-climbing the main pitches of the old Livesey
test-piece The Black Table (E1 5b). This is now a much more feasible
proposition with several new peg runners to supplement the sparse
natural placements. Between Black Table and The Corner the same pair
added a completely new line The Bleach Party (45m HVS/E1 5a). New
pegs and adequate natural protection make this an enjoyable
experience if double ropes are used. Further left the aptly named
The Silence of the drills (E1 5b) takes a groove in the arete to the
left of Silver Buttons but clips the odd bolt on that line en-route. |
At Malham there is news of a couple of significant repeats. First Jenny
Woodward made an impressive red-point of Predator (F8b), the first female
ascent and this was followed by Steve Crowe's ascent of the full height of
the Cove via The Groove, Free and Easy and Breach of the Peace - new name
Central Wall (F8b) This was completed all in one push on a very long rope
and is only the second time in over 20 years the feat has been
accomplished. John Dunne using a different finish being the first in the
1980s.
Finally, Barry Clarke has been less prolific than of late but still
managed to fill a few gaps on the Apex Buttress at Attermire and the odd
line at Twisleton.
| Over to Gritstone now and the big news is of the Hidden Quarry
at Heptonstall. This tree shrouded hole in the ground has been fully
developed by Gordon Mason, David Boeckstyns and friends who have created
12 excellent lines in the Hard severe to E2 categories. The team claim
that the rock quality is good and similar to that in the main quarry with
routes up to 22metres in length climbing walls, cracks and overlaps. As no
stars have been allocated on the script sent to me it is difficult to
single out the best lines but Alice in Wonderland (VS 4c), Quarryman's
Corner (HVS 5a), Electric Candle (E1 5b), Au Revoir Midi (E1 5b) and
Venus
Flytrap (E2 5c) may be enough to whet your appetites. It is a sheltered
south facing spot with overhanging trees to keep the rain out. It could be
a worthwhile winter venue? Full details of how to get there are provided
below.
Whilst still out west David Boekstyns and Gordon Mason also paid
another visit to Darby Delph and added Lizard (E2 5b)
to the wall between Completion and Correction.
Back in the heart of our region a significant addition has made at
Eldwick Crag, the often overlooked quarry near Dick Hudson's on the back
of Ilkley Moor. Adi Gill has climbed Elevator (E6 6c) to the left hand
side of the wall in the left hand bay. The route is 18 metres long and
much bigger than I remember from looking in there years ago. There is also
significant bouldering potential here as well. |
Aid Gill on Elevator E6 6C at
Eldwick Crag |
Aid Gill on Elevator E6 6C at
Eldwick Crag |
The number of routes continues to grow at Embsay Crag above
Skipton.
Jamie Moss and Matt Kilner have recorded another 6 micro-routes here. Five
are short severes with the hardest being Can You Touch It (VS 4c) to the
right of the overhang group. The only other news from Barden Moor is of
Grubfoot (E1 5c), which climbs the 1st arete at Halton Heights Quarry from
Andrew Bancroft.
A more substantial eliminate was added to Cracked Buttress at Brimham
recently when Jon Jewitt and Darryl Cavanagh contrived The Feel Good Hit
of the Summer (E5 6b) between Parallel Cracks and Central
Crack. Blinkers
may be needed to avoid touching Central Crack as use of this reduces the
grade to E3. At the same crag Jim Croft and Stuart Holmes added several
routes including The Periwocky (E1 5b), in the Black Tower area,
Rattlesnake (E1 5c) in the Watchdog area, A right hand start to Jackabu
(E1 5c) on Zebra Buttress and several short pitches on what the bouldering
guide refers to as The Threaded Block. Jim and Stuart know the block as
The Eccles Cake and all their names follow this theme. The best is
probably Icing on the Cake (HVS 5a), which is the continuation of an old
boulder problem. At nearby Eavestone Crag Phillipe Osborne returned to Jib
sail buttress 10 years on from creating his first routes there and added a
new eliminate Thar She Blows (E5 6b).
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For you bouldering fanatics John Hunt has compiled a mini-guide to the
Roundhill Boulders in Upper Nidderdale. This is a very pleasant spot with
similarities to nearby Slipstones. There are around 70 problems here first
described and documented by Tony Barley and added to in recent years by
several local worthies such as Chris Sowden, Steve Rhodes, Andy Swann, Jon
Pearson and Francis Holland. John Hunt has pulled it all together and
added a few eliminates of his own. The grades are generally relatively
modest, but up to V6. The rock quality and aspect are superb.
Finally, for those of you who are expecting a hard winter this year the
following write up of probably the best mixed climb in Yorkshire has been
received from Carl McKeating and Rachel Crolla. The line, or at least
variations on it have been climbed for years but I don't think it has ever
been recorded before.
Black Shiver Gully 150mm I/II P1 * A winter route which climbs the
distinct gully in the northwest face of Ingleborough. Undoubtedly climbed
by generations of mountaineers looking for Yorkshire winter fun. Leave
your ice screws behind, although the odd warthog and bulldog will prove
handy, while taking a small selection of rock gear will aid flexibilty of
line and adventure. 1. Ascend steepening snow to the short initial rock
step - often banked out with drifted snow and harder than first
appearances suggest, novices should belay here. 2. Climb the rock step
direct or via an awkward variant on the right before trending immediately
left to the main gully line. Continue up two more easier steps, to reach a
good spike belay on the right (40m of rope from the initial step). 3.
Steady snow leads to a wide broken amphitheatre, with a prominent small
buttress centre left (40m). 4.Continue up the centre of the gully or, more
interestingly, climb a short chimney (left of the small square buttress)
before traversing precariously rightwards to the gully centre (30m). 5.
Continue up to an escape in the centre of gully head via a short easy step
or venture up a line on the steep broken rocks of the right wall
(challenges to suit ability) (30m). 6. Hike 60m over level ground to the
final tor where a short interesting line can be picked - more fun than it
looks. Shelter from the wind and a spot for lunch can be found 60m further
along at Ingleborough's summit shelter.
Dave Musgrove, 1st November 2009
HIDDEN QUARRY, HEPTONSTALL NGR: SD986274
By Gordon Mason and David Boeckstyns
A newly developed quarry known to Gordon Mason for several years but
apparently, and surprisingly, overlooked by all other local activists.
There is lots of potential here but the obvious lines have now all been
cleaned and claimed. The rock is similar to the main quarry, with plenty
of small overhangs, various size cracks and walls. The climbing is solid
to about half height and then becomes overgrown with dense heather,
therefore ledges have been dug out for the finishes. There are tree belays
with some rope and peg lower offs. It is in a pleasant situation secluded
and south facing with tree cover keeping it sheltered from the wind. It
always seems to remain dry.
Approaches and access
From the A646 Hebden Bridge to Todmorden road, just out of the
town there is a set of traffic lights at the top of the hill with the Fox
and Goose pub on the right hand side, Heptonstall Road leads up from here.
If coming from Hebden Bridge you need to go past here to the turning
circle and then come back. Go up Heptonstall Road for 300 metres, where
there is a row of terraced houses on the right, you need to go past here
so you can turn round and park on the road above the houses. Directly
opposite the terraced houses there is a public footpath which leads up
into the wood, walk up this path for 100 metres to where there is a
junction of paths, walk on for a further 50 metres and just before the
path emerges from the wood there is a vague hidden path on your right
which leads directly into the quarry. Time from car 5 minutes.
Alternatively you could park on the Social Club car park in Heptonstall
and walk down into the quarry
To see previous editions of routes news click here
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